Top 5 Winter Routes in Uruguay for Insiders, Part 5

The mineral region: Minas de Corrales and the Lunarejo Valley, northern Uruguay

For seasoned travellers, locals recommend heading to the far north of the country, to the little-known parts of the Rivera and Tacuarembó departments. Minas de Corrales is a small mining town that emerged near gold mines in the nineteenth century. It is a historic site where gold was mined on an industrial scale; the ruins of the old Cuñapirú dam and mine equipment are still preserved.

The town, now home to about 3,000 people, is quiet, but its Gold Museum tells the story of mining, and on nearby Cerro Miriñaque, visitors can see unique dwarf palms growing on its summit. 60 km to the north lies Valle del Lunarejo - one of the most picturesque natural parks in Uruguay.

The Lunarejo Valley lies in the Cuchilla de Haedo hills, close to the Brazilian border, with green hills, sheer cliffs, waterfalls, and dense forests. The park covers about 29,000 hectares and is included in the national network of protected areas. Because of its remoteness, the area has preserved rich wildlife: it is home to deer, otters, and more than 150 species of birds, and turtles swim in its rivers. In winter, the valley remains appealing: the waterfalls are in full flow and the grass stays green because the climate is milder than in the south. Lunarejo can be visited year-round, and more Uruguayans are doing so as the area gradually develops for ecotourism.

The route combining Minas de Corrales and the Lunarejo Valley offers both an educational element—a walk through the old gold-mining town—and an adventure in the wild. It is quite far from the capital, but it gives you a sense of how diverse Uruguay can be far from the coast.

What to do in winter

Half a day is enough in Minas de Corrales: walk around the centre and visit the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), where an old mansion houses a large collection of artefacts, photographs, and stories from the gold-rush era. Then drive to the outskirts, to the Cuñapirú River, where the remains of a dam and an old hydroelectric power plant built for the mines in the 1880s stand. A picturesque arch remains among the undergrowth and is a favourite spot for photo shoots.

Another short trail leads to Cerro Miriñaque, a low hill notable for dwarf Yatay poñí palms on its summit, which are not found elsewhere in Uruguay. In winter the palms do not bloom, but they still look amusing—a palm grove only waist-high. After exploring Corrales, head to the Lunarejo Valley, about an hour’s drive away. The valley’s main attraction is its walking routes. There are several marked trails – for example, to the Cascada del Indio waterfall, where you can walk through the forest and reach a picturesque 15-metre waterfall.

Another trail leads to the high Mirador del Valle, with panoramic views over the Lunarejo Valley, its flat-topped hills, and deep gorges. Horse riding is also popular: local gauchos can guide visitors along trails that would take a full day on foot. Some tourist farms also arrange guided multiday treks—four or five days in the hills with overnight stays in tents.

Not everyone will attempt such a trek in winter, but a one-day hike or horse ride is comfortable enough with warm clothing. After an active day, you can have a picnic or sit by the fireplace (if you are staying at the farm). An interesting detail is that Lunarejo lies over the vast Guaraní Aquifer, one of the world’s largest underground aquifers. Local guides therefore stress ecology and responsible water use, and may even offer visitors the chance to plant a tree as a symbolic contribution to nature—a kind of eco-initiative for tourists.

In winter, Lunarejo offers hiking, waterfalls, clean air, and a complete break from city bustle.

How to get there

Minas de Corrales is about 440 km north of Montevideo.

By car: approximately five to six hours via Route 5 through Tacuarembó. Corrales lies 60 km north of Tacuarembó, along the paved local Routes 30 and 29, with signposts. From Corrales, continue north on Route 30 towards Masoller, then follow signs to the reserve. A detailed map or navigation app is needed because the turns are not obvious. Some enter the valley from the side of the village of Tranqueras (this is the southern entrance if you drive through the Rivera department), which also leads to the main estates. The roads inside the valley are mostly dirt roads.

Public transport: there is no direct service. You can take the Montevideo-Rivera bus (or Montevideo-Artigas) and get off in the city of Tranqueras (Rivera) or Masoller - these are the nearest settlements. From there you will have to take a taxi/transfer to the place of accommodation. Or take the bus to Tacuarembó and hire a car with a driver to Valle del Lunarejo (about 1.5 hours). In general, the trip is not easy without your own transport because the region is still poorly served by buses. Many people therefore drive their own car or travel as a group and rent a minivan with a driver. Once there, with a car, you can see all the sights in a couple of days. Keep the distances between locations in mind: for example, Corrales is about 70 km from the central estancias in the Lunarejo Valley, so allow extra time in the itinerary.

Where to stay

Minas de Corrales has a few modest hotels and guesthouses where you can stay overnight (for example, the small hotel Hostería Minas de Corrales in the centre). However, Uruguayans recommend staying closer to nature, directly in the Lunarejo Valley.

The valley has several tourist estancias and posadas—ranches that receive guests. For example, the Posada del Lunarejo is a cozy house converted from an old manor: it offers full board, excursions around the district, and even organizes fishing. Estancia Santa Josefa and Estancia Los Ceibos are farm-stay options where guests are served home-cooked food and guided along little-known trails. Prices usually include meals and activities and start at about USD 90 per person per day.

Budget travellers can camp—some estancias allow tents for a small fee—or rent simple cabins. But in winter it is still more comfortable to stay in heated accommodation—nights in Lunarejo can be cold (about 5–8 °C). Mobile coverage is not available everywhere in the valley, so it is best to book accommodation in advance using the telephone or WhatsApp contacts on the websites.

If you arrive without a plan, you can visit the visitor centre, Villa Pancha del Lunarejo —a kind of entry point with information about all agritourism options, where visitors may be able to find accommodation if places are available. Some travelers prefer to stay in the city of Rivera (a large city 100 km away) and drive from there, but it is far away—so we still recommend staying overnight in the valley itself to experience its atmosphere at dawn and sunset.

Why Uruguayans love it

Northern Uruguay is a destination for those who want to discover something new. Unlike the heavily promoted beaches of the south, it has few tourists and offers a feeling of genuine travel.

As one Uruguayan wrote: ‘I liked Minas de Corrales. It is just right for a weekend; it is a small town.’

Indeed, many people go to Corrales simply for a change of scene for a couple of days and to breathe the air of a mining town. The main magnet, of course, is the Lunarejo Valley. Uruguayans are increasingly recommending it to each other: on social media, you can see rave reviews of the waterfalls and trekking through the hills.

A major advantage is authenticity: visitors can stay on a working farm, eat food grown there, and spend time with hospitable hosts. Such “non-tourist” experiences are highly valued by locals. One government report noted that Lunarejo is visited at any time of year, and both short 5-kilometre hikes and longer four- to five-day hikes attract more and more people.

In winter, the valley also comes to life in its own way: morning fogs in the lowlands, colorful sunsets over flat hilltops.

“Everyone who comes to us leaves with a greater love of nature,” says a local guide from Lunarejo.

Perhaps that is why Uruguayans who visit these places then recommend them to friends. Of course, getting there is a bit difficult – but groups of friends with cars increasingly take road trips north during the winter holidays. Such a trip really gives a fresh perspective on their own country.

As a result, Minas de Corrales and the Lunarejo Valley are gradually becoming the kind of ‘rare route’ travellers can boast about, saying they have seen another Uruguay—without beaches, but with mountains, canyons, and untouched nature.

And, according to visitors’ reviews, it is absolutely worth it.