Top 5 Winter Routes in Uruguay for Locals (Part 4)
Anna Bamburova
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Quebrada de los Cuervos (canyon in Treinta y Tres)
Quebrada de los Cuervos is a unique natural place in the east of the country (the Treinta y Tres Department). It is a deep canyon (up to 300 m deep) in the Sierra del Erbal mountains, forested and crisscrossed by streams.
The name translates as "Raven Gorge", although black vultures actually live here (cuervo de cabeza roja – red-headed vultures). The site has been declared a protected landscape: 4,413 hectares of wilderness with rich flora and fauna. For lowland Uruguay, this canyon is a real curiosity: steep slopes, waterfalls on the Yerbal Chico stream, tropical vines, and ferns at the bottom of the gorge. No wonder they say that such dramatic landscapes challenge the stereotype of a “flat” country.
In winter, Quebrada de los Cuervos does not lose its charm. As locals say, you can come here at any time of year—each season is beautiful in its own way. In the cold season, the foliage becomes a little less lush, but the gorge still looks picturesque. What is more, there are fewer tourists in winter:
According to park staff, it is quiet here outside peak periods (for example, during Holy Week, when there can be up to 3,000 visitors).
And on a winter weekday, you can sometimes walk through the park almost alone. The gorge has its own microclimate: they say that even if it is raining in the city of Treinta y Tres, not a drop may fall in the Quebrada itself. So do not be discouraged by the forecast—the weather may be better when you get there. Of course, in winter you need to dress more warmly, take a raincoat, and set out on the trails earlier while it is still light. Overall, “Raven Gorge” is a must-see for nature lovers: once they visit, many Uruguayans fall in love with it forever.
What to do in winter
The main activity is hiking along the trails of Quebrada de los Cuervos. Several routes have been laid out here. The most popular is the circular Sendero Principal (~3 km), which descends to the bottom of the gorge and then climbs back out. The descent is quite steep: to make it easier for visitors, a rope is stretched along the trail for them to hold on to when descending and climbing. In winter, the ground can be slippery, so sturdy footwear is essential. Once you descend, you will reach the Yerbal Chico stream: on dry days, you can walk along the streambed, sit on the rocks by the water, and, if it is not too cold, even try swimming in the natural pools (in summer, almost everyone does this; in winter, the water is invigorating). A walk along the bottom of the gorge is like a journey into another world: subtropical forest thickets, tunnels of branches, fallen trunks, ferns taller than your head, and bright birds darting over the water. The trail then leads back up to a panoramic wooden bridge, a “mirador.”
From there, a view opens onto a green abyss—an image so impressive that it will remain in your memory forever. The entire route takes 2–3 hours, including rest breaks, and is manageable for anyone with an average level of fitness (locals emphasize that anyone can complete the trail; all it takes is time and willingness). In addition to the main trail, there is a short route to a viewpoint (about 500 m each way on wooden boardwalks, without descending into the gorge), suitable for older visitors or young children; the view from the mirador is impressive as well. In winter, you can also go birdwatching: parrots, toucans, and birds of prey live in the park. Guided tours are sometimes offered, with a guide who talks about the plants and shows hidden corners (for example, the path to a small waterfall). After a walk, it is customary to warm up with a mug of hot tea or mate at the base camp. If you stay overnight, you can build a small fire in the designated area in the evening and enjoy the incredibly starry sky—the air is very clear here, far from the cities.
How to get there
Quebrada de los Cuervos is about 45 km from the city of Treinta y Tres. From Montevideo, it is ~300 km to the northeast. By car, the journey takes about 3.5–4 hours: first take Route 8 to Treinta y Tres. From there, continue north along Ruta 8 for another ~20 km to the turnoff (around km 306, near El Convoy), then follow the signs to the park for ~25 km along a dirt road. The road is gravel and uneven in places—in the rainy season, it is best to drive slowly, but it is generally passable for any car.
By public transport: from the Tres Cruces terminal, a bus (for example, operated by Cynsa) will take you to Treinta y Tres (~4 hours). You then need to transfer: on weekends, a minibus sometimes runs from the Treinta y Tres bus station to the Quebrada itself (check the schedule at the city information center). Alternatively, hire a taxi/remise in the city for the day—many drivers take tourists to the park (journey time ~40 minutes). Another option is to join a tour group: Uruguayan clubs sometimes organize day trips here, but guides warn that some tours allow too little time in the park itself. It is better to come independently and allow at least a full day.
Inside the park, there is a parking lot at the entrance; from there, you must continue on foot (the start of the trail is ~1 km from the entrance). Please note that there is an admission fee (approximately 50 UYU per person), and in winter the park is usually open from 8:00 to 17:00, Wednesday through Sunday (closed Monday and Tuesday).
Where to sleep
Many Uruguayans come here for the day, but more and more travelers stay overnight to fully experience the place. Right on the grounds, there is a Parque Municipal Campground : equipped tent sites (approximately 110 UYU per person per night), with individual barbecue grills, hot showers, a covered communal fire pit, and even free firewood (if available). Places must be booked in advance through the Intendencia Treinta y Tres website. In winter, tents can be quite cold, but the most adventurous still set up camp—in return, they get a nighttime campfire spectacle and complete communion with nature. Small cabins near the park office are available for those who prefer comfort; they are also managed by the municipality.
The cabins are simple but have beds and basic amenities—a good option for sheltering from bad weather. In addition, a couple of kilometers from the park entrance is the “El Capricho” guesthouse, a well-known place run by locals. It has a small shop, a restaurant serving homemade food, and several guest rooms. According to reviews, the food at El Capricho is excellent—the freshest produce comes from its own garden, the meat from its own cows, and the prices are very reasonable.
This is almost the only café in the whole area, so even if you are not staying overnight, stop by for a meal. There is also always the option of staying in the city of Treinta y Tres (45 km away), where there are several inexpensive hotels—but then you will have to travel back and forth. Ideally, spend at least one night near the Quebrada so that you can set out on the trail early in the morning and not have to rush away in the evening.
Why Uruguayans Love This Place
Quebrada de los Cuervos is a source of pride for local eco-tourism enthusiasts. Until recently, few people knew about it, but in recent years (especially since 2020, when many explored their own country instead of traveling abroad), Uruguayans have discovered the charms of this canyon in large numbers. On social media, people often share delighted photos: “What beauty we have in Treinta y Tres!” Local guides debunk the myths that it is difficult to get there or that you need to be a super-athlete—in fact, anyone who wants to can go to the Quebrada. In winter, Uruguayans appreciate the lack of crowds in Quebrada (you can walk peacefully without meeting anyone on the trail) and the comfortably cool conditions for hiking.
“Believe me, it is worth coming here not only in hot weather but also in the cold season—you just need to dress warmly and make the most of the daylight hours,” advises the author of a local blog.
Spending the night in the mountains under the stars, waking to birdsong, and brewing coffee over a morning campfire is a real reset for city dwellers. It is no wonder that Quebrada de los Cuervos is increasingly appearing on lists of favorite weekend routes among Uruguayans seeking adventure in their own country.