Top 5 Winter Routes in Uruguay for Locals, Part 1

Villa Serrana

Villa Serrana is a tiny mountain village in the Sierra de Lavalleja (just 25 km from the town of Minas). It is a true haven of peace and comfort, designed specifically for a secluded getaway.

The village was established in the 1940s as a tourism experiment: wooden houses and stone cottages are scattered among the rolling green hills, connected by dirt paths. In winter, Villa Serrana becomes a fairy-tale scene: in the mornings, the valleys are shrouded in fog, the air smells of wood smoke, and smoke curls from the chimneys of cozy houses. Amid complete silence (there are fewer than 100 permanent residents), a special sense of peace is felt—this is precisely why people come here to disconnect from the world. It is no wonder that locals call Villa Serrana “a winter fairy tale in the mountains.”

What to do in winter:

Villa Serrana is ideal for a leisurely holiday in nature. During the day, walks in the hills are popular—from easy trails around a small lake to a climb to the Cerro de la Buena Vista viewpoint, which offers unique views of the mountain landscape. You can explore the surrounding area, including nearby small waterfalls and rocks (for example, Salto del Penitente is about 40 minutes away). After an active walk, Uruguayans love long lunches and reading by the fireplace: almost every house has a fireplace or wood-burning stove. In the evening, there is a homemade dinner made with local produce (grilled steak or vegetables from a nearby farm), followed by a sweet sleep to the sound of the wind in the mountains. Many admit that winter here brings the best “guilt-free lazy siestas” of their lives—there is such silence and tranquility around that time seems to stand still.

How to get there:

Villa Serrana is located about 140 km from Montevideo. The easiest way to get there is by car (about 2 hours): take Highway 8 to Minas, then continue another 25 km northeast (turn onto the dirt road signposted for Villa Serrana). The roads within the village are unpaved and sometimes steep, but are generally accessible by car (it is advisable to be more careful in the rain). By public transport, buses operated by several companies run from Montevideo’s central bus station, Tres Cruces, to Minas (about 2 hours). From there, a local bus or minibus goes directly to Villa Serrana a couple of times a day. However, the schedule is limited, so many people travel to Minas and then take a taxi (about 30 minutes) or ask for a lift. Locals advise travelling by your own transport whenever possible, as it is more convenient for exploring the surrounding mountains. It is important to note that there is no petrol station in the village and the shops are modest, so it is best to stock up on fuel and groceries in Minas in advance.

Where to stay overnight:

Villa Serrana is famous for its cozy Uruguayans love to rent cabañas—small log or stone cottages with a kitchen and, necessarily, a fireplace or a “salamander” (a wood-burning stove). As those in the know note, “accommodation with a wood-burning stove is a must-have; it completely changes the experience.” Villa Serrana has several organized cottage complexes operating year-round, as well as many Airbnb options (with prices ranging from budget-friendly stays to quite luxurious chalets). For those who want to immerse themselves completely in nature, there is a campsite near a small dam (Represa Villa Serrana)—a picturesque spot, but winter nights are cold, so tent camping is less popular than a warm house with a fireplace. One unique place worth noting is Ventorrillo de la Buena Vista, a historic restaurant building on a hilltop, designed by architect H. Toras. It is now sometimes rented for events or accommodation, making it an option for organized groups. Overall, the ideal option

Why Uruguayans love this place:

Villa Serrana is a favorite winter resort among locals. They value its combination of simple pleasures: mountain scenery, silence, a crackling fireplace, and a starry sky free from city lights. “If you want a place where you can truly disconnect, this is it! It is very beautiful in winter, with places to walk and delicious food to enjoy… I went for the weekend—it was incredible,” writes one Uruguayan. In discussions about short getaways, many recommend Villa Serrana as the ideal winter destination for couples or groups of friends. A holiday here is completely different from one at a beach resort: it is more intimate and homey, with a family-like feel. Guests describe drinking mate on the porch while looking out over fog in the valley or baking bread in a wood-burning oven—such heartfelt little moments are remembered for a long time. It is no wonder that Villa Serrana holds a special place among Uruguayans’ winter escapes—it truly is “a fairy tale in the mountains” that makes you want to return every year.

The only caveat is that it is advisable to have a car to get around freely (without your own car, it can be difficult here), but this does not stop many people. Villa Serrana remains a quiet local secret, where people go for romance and a restorative break away from the hustle and bustle.