Guide to the Yemanjá festival

If you look at Montevideo’s waterfront this evening, you will see the city change colour. Thousands of people dressed in white will head to the water. Today is the eve of the Yemanjá festival, one of Uruguay’s most beautiful and mystical events of the year.

For those who have recently arrived, it may look like an unusual flash mob. In fact, it is a deep-rooted tradition that unites the country’s religion, culture and history.

Who is Yemanjá

In the Afro-Umbandist tradition, she is the goddess of the sea, patroness of family and fertility, and mother of all Orishas (spirits). When enslaved people from Africa arrived in Uruguay, they preserved their beliefs but, to hide them from Catholic masters, associated Yemanjá with the Virgin Mary.

Today, it is a celebration not only for believers but for everyone who wishes to pay tribute to the ocean.

What will happen today (1 February)

Although the official date is 2 February, the main magic happens on the eve, at sunset.

As soon as the sun touches the water, beaches will begin to fill with people. Holes will be dug in the sand for candles, and small boats with offerings will be set afloat: flowers, fruit (especially watermelons), perfume, jewellery and sweet corn. It is believed that if the sea takes a gift and does not return it to shore, the request has been heard.

Where to go and watch

Playa Ramírez (Parque Rodó)

This is the epicentre of the event. The largest communities (terreiros) gather here. You will see large altars, hear the hypnotic rhythm of drums and see people enter a trance.

Pros: Incredible energy and scale.

Cons: Very crowded and noisy.

Playa del Buceo or Cerro

Here the atmosphere is more intimate. Families and small groups come here. If you want a calmer setting and beautiful photographs without crowds in the frame, this is the place for you.

Etiquette: how an observer should behave

Uruguayans are very tolerant and the celebration is open to everyone, but there are several rules of respect:

1. Do not step on the area with candles and offerings.

1. Do not photograph people in trance or prayer close-up with a flash. It is better to take wide shots.

1. If you want to take part, buy a white carnation or candle and simply leave it by the water.

1. Clothing. If you wear something white, you will feel part of the occasion rather than like an outsider.

Why it is worth seeing

This is a rare moment when secular, calm Uruguay reveals its mystical side. Thousands of lights reflect in the dark Atlantic water, the smell of the sea mixes with incense, and the rhythm of drums matches the rhythm of the waves.

Do not miss this sunset. See you on the beach.